Temple Stay Fails

A short list of Do's and Do Not's when participating in a Temple Stay:


1a. DO make sure you communicate properly with the reservation staff.
1b. DO NOT ever enter a building with your shoes on.

2a. DO make sure you watch those around you for clues on how to behave.
2b. DO NOT zone out when those clues are your only means of direction.

3a. DO take any opportunity to try something new.
3b. DO NOT hold incense sticks tightly. (They break.)

4a. DO wear appropriate clothing for all activities and weather.
4b. DO NOT leave any amount of food in your dish.

5a. DO talk with the other guests.
5b. DO NOT talk at your regular decibel.

6a. DO bring extra food.
6b. DO NOT leave the wrappers in the trash.

7a. DO enjoy your stay.
7b. DO NOT invite your friends of the opposite sex into your room.

8a. DO attempt to communicate with the Monks/Dharmas.
8b. DO NOT assume there is no one around when you are at a shrine in early morning darkness.

9a. DO ask questions in the Q&A sessions.
9b. DO NOT drink your tea quickly in an attempt to "catch up".

10a. DO practice all the new skills you are learning.
10b. DO NOT practice them at the wrong times.

11a. DO listen carefully to everything you hear.
11b. DO NOT openly contradict anyone else.

12. DO everything slowly and intentionally.


Our group may or may not have learned all of these rules by experience.

Wheel

Walking back to the FLEC Building from eating lunch at the cafeteria, my Korean friend and I were chatting about the weather and our classes, when out of nowhere I heard a male voice say - less hesitantly and more urgently than normal, "Excuse me." As department elections are being held soon, more than one Korean student has stopped me to tell me who to vote for, so my initial response was to look at him, nod and keep walking while pretending I was trying to understand who he was telling me to vote for.

First, "Do you speak Korean?"
"No."
"Do you speak English?"
*faint smile - thank you for not assuming!* "Yes."
"Well, my English is very bad, but I have a favor to ask...Are you busy now?"
"Well...actually, yes."
"Oh, well. Um, I really need a favor."
"Uhh..."
"My favor is, I have a presentation I need to give, and I need someone to look over it."
Oh, I can do that. Probably a paper he has for his English class...no problem.
"Ah, well I will be busy until 5."
"Where will you be after 5?"
"In the building right behind you. Do you have time at 5?"
"Yes. Where...?"
"Oh, go in the main door, and straight ahead there is a room. The sign above the door says Global Lounge. I'll be in there."

By the time 5 rolled around, the 4 hours of sleep I got last night were seeming like a smaller and smaller amount, and I had dozed off in the corner. When I work up, I saw him sitting with a nervous-looking lady, probably a bit older than me. He introduced her as I sat down, handed me some papers, and pulled out his phone. He asked me if I could read it out loud as he recorded it, to improve their pronunciation and phrasing, as this was an extremely important presentation.

Not exactly sure, but I think she was trying to get a job as a teacher, or develop a research program, at another college. And her research was in the field of dental diseases. I'm not 100% sure I pronounced all the words correctly, and more than once I had to reread something. Nonetheless, they were extremely grateful. It took me 6.5 minutes to read the presentation, and after that I spent another 5 adding the handful of articles they had left out. All in all, it was an extremely well-written and grammatically correct paper. I felt honored to be able to help them!

They were extremely thankful.

He pulled a Starbucks drink out of his coat pocket, and told me he'd bought it warm for me. Then asked me what other compensation I wanted. I laughed and told him, "Well, I am just a student now, but in a year I will be trying to go to graduate school, and then maybe someone will help me like I am helping you. So it's ok!" "Oh...really??" "Of course! nice to meet you and good luck! Oh, and thank you for the coffee, I was really tired!"

"Well I've been afraid of changing..."

Last night I woke up from a much-needed 6-hour nap, and thought "What should I do now?" When my mind answered me "Hmm...are there any lists, plans, or records I can make?" my next thought was "What??! Since when do I plan and organize in my spare time? Who is this person??" I sat there thinking about what I'd just thought, feeling quite disconcerted at the changes taking place almost without my notice. Feeling like I no longer knew myself. Then my friend knocked on the door and asked me if I wanted to go eat with them. I immediately felt better and exclaimed, "Sure!" Then my mind started racing once again, "Wait, what? Since when do I spend time with other people to make me feel better? Am I turning into an extrovert?! *gasp*"

WHO IS THIS PERSON IN MY BODY!!

Of course, facing the idea of having an identity crisis at the age of 23 because I wanted to make a list and then go out with friends seemed really quite ridiculous - at least I can still laugh at myself! But someone asked me about a month ago how this experience was changing me, and since then I've been trying to answer.

Yes, I now tend to be extremely organized and future-focused. I still don't ever make my bed, but the girl who used to leave her shoes and projects all over the house, and the teenager who used to have piles of clothes in every available floor space, has become the women who tightly holds to the mantra, "A place for everything, and everything in its place." The high-schooler who used to procrastinate until 9 o'clock at night, is now the college student who studies regularly every day so she never has to study for finals.

Also, I do plan ahead. Nothing big, just, you know... Graduate school. In two years. But in this area, I have certainly maintained some of my spontaneous tendencies. I like to look at options, and work toward one, while striving to keep all the others open - just in case I change my mind. I suppose "organized" and "future-focused" does not necessarily equate with being a "planner."

As for becoming an extrovert. Well, I haven't. I have, however, learned the therapeutic effects of going out with others when I am tempted to over-analyze myself. Somehow, when I'm with others, I have less time to be selfish. Who knew?

I've noticed some other changes as well...

Such as, not being afraid of looking weird, or of people noticing me. Why? Well, everyone notices me here anyway. Why not give them a better reason than my blond hair?
I've also begun to learn that there is nothing wrong with trying something even if I know I won't be good at it. So what if I never make a single basket? I enjoyed the time spent attempting to play basketball with several other almost as bad as I was.
Since I got here, I have frequently heard the accusation, "Yea, but you like being healthy!" First, I never knew that was such a bad thing... And second, since when do I like being healthy? Well, since I recently realized how much better I feel physically and psychologically when I eat food that is good for me and devote time every day to exercise.
Finally, that state that some refer to as "being in love," still not sure I buy it. But I can safely say that I feel things I've never felt before, and make very different decisions than I used to, all because of Sam.

So yes, I am changing. That person in my body - which itself looks a bit different - is not the same as she used to be. But growing and changing often go together. I'm not afraid of changing because I don't want to be the same person I was yesterday! I want to be kinder, stronger, and wiser. I want to be growing.

Style as Status

The first Sunday I was in Korea, I visited my friend Jinju's church with her. She told me that everyone thought I was extremely polite because every time she greeted someone with a bow and and "Anyeong Ha Saeyo," I did the same.

During the school orientation, we were told that under no circumstances should we wear tank-tops, because they never do that, and it would be perceived as extremely immodest. I also noticed that no one wore flip flops - too casual I assume. My only thought was "I wish someone had told me these things *before* I got here with all my American clothes..." After that we all did our best to make our wardrobes fit both the weather and Koreans' expectations.

As it turns out, however, we may not have been quite on target.

When I told Jinju about how I had bought some new clothes and changed my style a bit so as to avoid giving offense, she responded in surprise, "Oh! You didn't have to do that! It's very respectful of you, but you are a foreigner, so you can wear tank-tops." Today I asked a couple of my friends here and their response was extremely similar, "Really? I think you can wear whatever you want - you are a foreigner." 

I have also seen the while normal college students and young women normally dress quite conservatively, models, actresses, singers, and other celebrities seem to be able to wear anything regardless of what it covers and what it shows.

So it's more of a status issue than one of modesty. I am a foreigner, I am expected to be different. 

I feel like if I were to walk around with semi-bear shoulders, I would be flaunting my status as an outsider. Which is not really something I want to do. On the other hand, my hair, skin, eyes, and speech clearly define me as a foreigner, so if I ever get the urge to underscore the difference, I can safely wear a strapless dress or flip flops.

(A lot of) Pictures: Busan edition.

 This is the view from my hostel... The New Day Hostel, right across the street from the Subway station, and on the fifth floor of a building 5-minutes walk from the beach. Not only a great location, but also the most amazing hostel I have ever stayed in. Wow.

Beomeosa Temple

Graceful lines.

Intricate paintings.

Beautiful surroundings.

Frightening legends.

Koreans and foreigners.

Mystical symbolism.

Living history.

Sacred rituals.

 Continuing on up the mountain...

Rock stairs.

Catching up for 3 years of lost time.

Inside jokes.

More rock stairs.

Breathtaking, rugged beauty.

Photo op!

More rock stairs.

Trickling water - underneath the rocks. 

Red, yellow, orange, and purple leaves floating in the air around me.

More rock stairs.

Geumgangam

Quiet.

Ethereal.

Colorful.

Clean.

Buddhist.

Well-kept.

Intriguing.

Peaceful.

Hidden.

Open.

After all that climbing, we were hungry...

And then it was time for more exploring (walking). We found all kinds of things. And we got all kinds of worn out. And hungry.

Eel. (A lack of) Soju. Jalapeños. Garlic. Lettuce. Pickles. Chop sticks. Other stuff.

Gwangwan Bridge during the day...

And...at night!

I don't think you can tell, but it was around 2000 and pouring rain.

 Sunday consisted of, among other things...

Visiting Haeundae Beach.

Drinking fresh-squeezed lemonade.

Wandering around the BIFF (Busan International Film Festival) grounds.

 Watching four Koreans play beach soccer.

Finding a slide.

Filling in lottery tickets.

Listening to sea gulls fly over me.

 Finding a stand that sold all kinds of fish cakes. ALL kinds...

...and Hodok. With nuts.

Walking past tables and tables full of people eating fresh-cooked food.

Trying pig intestines stuffed with noodles. Along with pig intestines and lungs. It was...interesting. 

And finally...waiting for my train. In a coffee shop. With a mini train in it.

Overall, I'd say the trip was a success. And amazing. And beautiful. And busy. And tiring. And too short.

Some things are inexplicable.

Although I have been to several (Buddhist) temples here, the sense of peace that pervades the entire site never ceases to amaze me. I could be standing shoulder to shoulder with a crowd of people as we attempt to view the famous, or not-so-famous, Buddha or building, or I could be standing alone in the shade of an ancient tree that's grown through the stone fence surrounding the temple grounds. Either way, the feeling of total calm is inescapable.

This weekend I visited the Beomeosa Temple in Busan, and I think I can safely say that it is not only the most unique, but also the most beautiful that I have seen to far. It also contained a surprise for us.

After a long trek up some rock stairs built into the mountain behind the temple, my tour guide/good friend, Yeongho, and I found a secluded compound where there were maybe 5 other people. At first we didn't know if we could go in, because inside the main building there were a couple monks singing an obviously-sacred a capella tune. Other than those monks and two large, fluffy dogs, the place seems deserted.

After standing, whispering, taking a few photos, and generally soaking up the restful atmosphere, we caught glimpse of a hiker inside the wall, so we ventured in ourselves.

Inside, the yard, buildings, and even the dogs, seemed perfectly managed. Quite, still, and well-kept, it appeared to be an actually dwelling place for Buddhist monks. Complete with a spring, temple, manicured bushes, sleeping rooms, and even beautiful stone structures built into the mountain. It was surreal, but so attainable at the same time. From the gate, you could see the entire compound, but it was impossible to ignore the sense that most of what was happening was not visible. Somehow, the camera felt out-place-while, while simultaneously feeling useless. It was like a time warp - which would be impossible to capture. But on the other hand, it did not feel wrong to be a modern person with a phone, sparkly earrings, and a camera.

In an inexplicable way, the past, present and future all seemed to meet. Natural beauty met humanly-designed beauty. The tangible world met the ethereal. All in a seamless, intangible yet inescapable manner. All this inside the small walls of Geumgangam.

Genie Talks

If you don't get the reference: http://genietalk.etri.re.kr/english.html...

For those of you who know me, you know that I am not terribly politically active and rarely even express political opinions. For those of you who don't know me, well, now you know me a little better... I am not apathetic regarding political issues, and I like to listen to opposing ideas and all possible perspectives. So I was intrigued when my Korean History teacher, Genie, expressed her opinion on President Obama.

Genie is an extremely intelligent student who is currently finishing her Doctoral studies in Korean Studies on scholarship from the Korean government. She has traveled to over 40 countries both for academic and professional reasons. She is married with one daughter. She teaches to supplement her scholarship - Modern Korean History to Korean high school students, and the Survey of Korean History to five international students here at Soonchunhyang.

Instead of commenting on the pros or cons of President Obama's fiscal or global policies, she looked at his presidency from a very historical view point. In the broad scheme of all history, America has been around for only a very short time. In that time, a man whose ancestors had been slaves for over a century and a half, less than a century and a half ago, came to hold the most powerful position, arguably, in the world. Not by bloodshed or by terror, but by popular, democratic vote.

Regardless of your view on democracy, history, Obama, politics, or even slavery and race, this is remarkable. Historically, emancipation has always been a difficult decision, and assimilation an even more difficult process. It is no small thing that our country has come so far in this area.

At least, that is the way Genie translated it.