Although I have been to several (Buddhist) temples here, the sense of peace that pervades the entire site never ceases to amaze me. I could be standing shoulder to shoulder with a crowd of people as we attempt to view the famous, or not-so-famous, Buddha or building, or I could be standing alone in the shade of an ancient tree that's grown through the stone fence surrounding the temple grounds. Either way, the feeling of total calm is inescapable.
This weekend I visited the Beomeosa Temple in Busan, and I think I can safely say that it is not only the most unique, but also the most beautiful that I have seen to far. It also contained a surprise for us.
After a long trek up some rock stairs built into the mountain behind the temple, my tour guide/good friend, Yeongho, and I found a secluded compound where there were maybe 5 other people. At first we didn't know if we could go in, because inside the main building there were a couple monks singing an obviously-sacred a capella tune. Other than those monks and two large, fluffy dogs, the place seems deserted.
After standing, whispering, taking a few photos, and generally soaking up the restful atmosphere, we caught glimpse of a hiker inside the wall, so we ventured in ourselves.
Inside, the yard, buildings, and even the dogs, seemed perfectly managed. Quite, still, and well-kept, it appeared to be an actually dwelling place for Buddhist monks. Complete with a spring, temple, manicured bushes, sleeping rooms, and even beautiful stone structures built into the mountain. It was surreal, but so attainable at the same time. From the gate, you could see the entire compound, but it was impossible to ignore the sense that most of what was happening was not visible. Somehow, the camera felt out-place-while, while simultaneously feeling useless. It was like a time warp - which would be impossible to capture. But on the other hand, it did not feel wrong to be a modern person with a phone, sparkly earrings, and a camera.
In an inexplicable way, the past, present and future all seemed to meet. Natural beauty met humanly-designed beauty. The tangible world met the ethereal. All in a seamless, intangible yet inescapable manner. All this inside the small walls of Geumgangam.
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