The day I visited my first of the 7 Wonders of the World will forever be remembered as one of the most mixed of experiences and emotions.
Machu Picchu.
A place full of magic, history, culture, and people, lots of people. An unforgetable place that can take hours to reach, hours to explore, and finally several more hours to leave. An incredible place that will require an incredible amount of savings to finance. And finally, a place of breath-taking magnitude, beauty, mystery, and masonry.
Our day started around 5. The goal was to reach Calle Pavitos and catch a combi down to Ollantaytambo, from there it was just a matter of finding a bus, or a train, or some means of reaching the little town of Machu Picchu a few thousand feet below the famous historical site of Machu Picchu. It all sounded simple enough when I looked at the Peruvian government's official site, it also seemed rather simple when I read the experiences of fellow travels of Trip Advisor and other such helpful sites. And it was simple. At first. 5:30 in the morning we reach Calle Patvitos - we know we're in the right place because we could hear the drivers calling out their destinations from three blocks away. Incidentally they are all going the same place, so we have some bargaining power. Our local friends told us not to pay more than 10 Soles each, so when we found a driver who was willing to give us that price we hopped in. His combi was fairly empty, so we know we've got a little while to wait - no one drives for two hours with an empty seat. No one.
About 6:30 we finally get on the road. Surprise: Jo and I are the only foreigners in the van. We listen to the radio, bad news about a bus crash, but other than that the van is quiet, it's too early for talk. The drive into the Valle Sagrado between Cusco and Ollantaytambo is gorgeous. We are almost too tired to keep our eyes open, but we know that the scenery is too good to miss. High, snow-covered peaks; lush, green fields; the sun coming up over the mountains, sending the snow into a fury of glittering, dazzling, blinding beauty; young children beginning the days chores - minding the llamas, pigs, goats, and sheep tethered along the sides of the road; and here and there a lone shop-keeper or vendor beginning the days work early, hoping to catch the earliest-risers. Most of our fellow passengers are asleep. They take this trip every morning, making their way from the crowded Cusco to the smaller tourist towns in the Sacred Valley where they are more likely to have a steady stream of business. They have grown accustomed to the sights and sounds, the beauty of the Andes has lost its charm on this Monday morning.
Upon arriving at the bus station in Ollantaytambo at around 8:20, we begin to question some local people about different routes to Machu Picchu. We get some strange looks, and two answers. Most point to the train ticketing booth and look at us like we must be stupid - everyone takes the train. Finally, however, I get the answer I am looking for, "Go back to the plaza and take a bus, it will get you about half way, you can walk the rest of the way." But the plaza was a long way away, so we opt to take the train on the way in, and the walking/bus route on the way out. With about 2 minutes to spare we run to catch the train. It was a nice train. They give us coffee, and a chocolate pastry. And a tangerine. That's nice too. But for $87 per one-way ticket, it better be nice! Again, the scenery is breathtaking. This time we wind around next to a tumultuous river which looks unsettlingly much like chocolate milk to two people who knew they wouldn't be eating much that day.
When we finally reach Machu Picchu at around 10:30 we wander around a bit. The town is quiet, remote. The girl in the Mini Shop doesn't even know where the bus station to "el sitio historico de Machu Picchu" is. A friendly lady in a pharmacy from whom we bought tissues finally pointed us in the right direction. After stopping to buy some bread for lunch we reach the station and again, opt to take the bus up (only $10 per one way ticket this time), and walk back down. The bus is almost full, which means we'll be heading up soon. We are NOT too tired to be excited, not too excited to notice the young mother next to us traveling with three young children, and not too travel-weary to take note of their faces and recognize them the next day at the airport in Lima (it really is a small world!).
After half an hour of zig-zagging our way up the side of a mountain, we're there. Machu Picchu!
People stream out in front of us, all waiting for the little stamp, "usado" letting the world know that we have used our tickets to Machu Picchu - we made it! Once through the gate we move slowly up the slight incline and finally, FINALLY, spread out in front of us like a dream come true, is one of the most incredible and truly wonderful sights I have ever seen.
...To be continued!
